Thanks Chuck!

@micahspur congratulations! What is your set up?

I know Deno, Im kicking myself in the pants right now!

Would you be willing to elaborate as to why Steve? Do you mean that length doesn't affect dynamic spine in wood arrows, or that it is simply best to use a shorter arrow as it will recover faster? I have been told they are slower to rover from paradox. I have been told the same thing before. I can get "good" flight at 20' but when I start stepping back my impact changes, especially between wood and carbon. So one or the other is not tuned. It is left and right not up and down btw. I have limited experience in archery and I know there is a long tradition of NOT bare shafting wood arrows. Until I see the reasons not to for myself I guess I'm gonna have to try. Noone's ever explained why it wouldn't work so I guess in my mind that meant it was still possible. I don't know, I'm weird like that.

I wonder if there is a burr that is left from the machining process in the vents? If it was smooth I don't see how it could grab tissue and pull it through. I don't like vents anyway. So Im just switching solids next year.

well, I guess thats a story in and of itself!

Yeah, I think a lot of the interaction has shifted to social media platforms like instagram.

I tried flo green here last year and that was a mistake! there is so much flo green in nature in the early season here it was perfect camouflage. I was certainly not expecting it to be so hard to find. white works great here, but I learned it doesn't work so well with snow, don't ask me how I know... 🙄

thats what I was getting at chuck, it seems there are lots of unsubstantiated claims that such and such is the best core wood. If it doesn't matter much what the core is, just say, this is the wood I have most easily available so I use such and such. Maybe there is a best, thats why Im asking, Im a total novice what do I know!

Chuck no it is a rawhide-backed Osage bow. The reason I was wondering is that osage is a good bow wood for self bows and such but it is fairly heavy and I was wondering why anyone would use it in a glass bow. It isn't a good self-bow wood because it is heavy, there are plenty of exotics that are heavier. It is good because it resists compression, where needed, and is elastic, where needed. Right? I likely would not have good results making a self bow out of the core foam. But it works fine as a spacer. I have never worked with foam or had limbs with foam cores, I did not know it was heavier than wood. That is interesting. so basically the core wood makes up such a small percentage of performance that it doesn't really matter? At least not until you get into some of the highly stressed designs like super curves? I have not looked into the core wood options for those designs... I have two sets of limbs in the mail right now, one is a foam core with carbon, and the other I believe is bamboo and glass. they are the same length and within a few pounds of each other. It will be interesting to see how much they weigh and what the draw force curve is. they will be on a 21" riser so I'm expecting them to both be very smooth. I have two sides of my archery interests, almost two personalities. One loves wood bows wood arrows and stone points, primitive as can be, the other thinks that if you're going to use glass why not squeeze as much out of it as possible? you can engineer a glass bow, you have to coax out a wood bow. that's just my way of looking at it. I like that archery can be as simple or technical as you want to make it. in the end, we are all performing the same function, launching arrows! I have primitive bows hanging up next to cnc machined bows, they all shoot better than I can tho lol!!!

I shot 10 deer this year with different broadheads. I shot zwickeys (solid), bear paw jager (vented), grizzly single bevel (solid), and dirt nap 2 blade with bleaders (vented). I sharpen all my heads on an angle guided system, (lansky) then hone with ceramic and strop on leather. The best blood trails were from the 4 blade, they left gapping holes, very impressed. The worst blood trails were from the single bevel grizzly, followed by the jager, which left holes slaller than the width of the blade. Then came the zwickeys. I do not have any three blade heads to test as of right now. I acquired some ace heads and bear razor heads that I will use next year as well. I did not see any significant amount of hair pulled into the wound channel from any of the heads. also there was more variation within the heads than there was between them. however, the 4 blade was the exception. I made a bad shot on a deer and hit it in the guts, the large opening caused the intestines to spill out and and the deer bedded in sight, I was able to follow up immediately. likewise i had a poor shot on a deer with the single bevel grizzly and other wasn't a single speck of blood. Not one. I did strike heavy bone on one deer with the bear paw jagers and had one inch of penetration, the deer walked off like nothing even happened, not even a limp. I struck the shoulderblade where it connects to the humerus. I do not have a large enough data set to make any real conclusions. However, I do think that if your heads are dragging tissue into the wound channel you have a problem. Either your broad head is not sharp to begin with, or the steel is not hard enough to retain its edge all the way through. The jagers had very poor edge retention while the zwikeys and grizzlys were pretty good, the dirt nap was in between. I shot deer with micro diameter carbons all the way to woodies, with a variety of flatchings including 5" feathers to 3" trad vanes. I have no clue if they add to any of it or not. This is only my second year hunting so I'm still learning at every turn, this is just what I experienced. If you want proof of different heads and have instagram follow @thetradlab lots of good pics of terminal performance of different heads in real hunting situations. Also, love him or hate him, Aaron Snyder kills more animals a lot of us ever will and he is rocking rms 3 blades right now as well as iron wills with bleeders.

nice work! whats the story on the shed?

Jeremy, I would think so. I just got back from shooting some two fletch with white feathers on a black shaft could definitely tell a difference from my 3 fletch.

I agree, its not the same lively place it once was. As the views show there's plenty of members still around.

Sorry Kelly. If anything happens I'll be sure to let you know.

I used to love Lansky but the last two sets of stones I've had have worn out and cupped or crumbled with just a few sharpenings. They replaced one but it wasn't much better. My old set, which got lost in a move was rock solid, pun intended, and I sharpened all kinds of stuff with it without issue.

pretty sure you shouldn't have any problems with the three-blade. I had a bunch of 2 blades gifted to me and bought a few more this year. when they are gone I will be switching to three blades. with the Magnus the steel is so thin you aren't getting any of the "bone busting" benefits anyway that you may get from the other 2 blades. I would rather have more blood. I shot Magnus all last year and some this year. I was not impressed with the durability, bending blades, etc. and the edge retention was not great. maybe I got a bad batch. either way, I don't think you are losing anything by moving to the 3 blades. according to Cody Greenwood of Trad Lab, three blades can require less push force in soft tissue than 2 blades. I would guess a lot of it has to do this the fact there is less friction on the ferrule and the shaft with a three-blade. that part is just me guessing tho.

Just sold a bow that was 60" because I'm drawing 29" the string angle at the limb tips was right on 90 deg at full draw. I have a bow I made that is 50" and I can shoot pretty good if I do everything exactly right. It is certainly less forgiving. I have never owned a bow that has been ideal for me, either the draw weight has been off or the length has been wrong. I am going to be putting together an ilf bow that will be on a 21" riser and should total out about 66" it should be about 38-42# so I will finally be able to see what kind of a difference it makes having a bow that is at a very comfortable weight and the right length for my draw.

all the pics were in focus before uploading them, I dont know why some got fuzzy. sorry!

Thanks Steve.