Forum Posts

jack_skinner
Feb 28, 2022
In Building Archery Equipment
A bow by: Jack Skinner, Hugh Rich and Ira Blair A little history. Ira aka Ugly Coyote So Cal saw my posts on building a hickory bow (Hermit). So he gifts me (epic) a draw knife that had belong to none other than Hugh Rich. If you need read up or just ask Ira but leave it to say an Archers..Archer. He also posted a couple of pictures of Hugh drawing two bows he had made War Whoop 1 and 2. Well knowing the mojo attached to this draw knife I just had to make a bow with it. Ira sent me some additional information on the bows. Whoop 1 was 66 inch yew backed with hickory, which was backed with silk, which was backed with clarified calfskin, and it was trapped. Well not into backing bows. Not sure how they used silk and clarified calfskin have never seen, thats out. Whoop 2 was yew, faced (belly) with plastic (say what), and backed with sinew. Lets back up a touch just with the photos I summerized that W2 was a English Longbow design (ELB). The small bulbous grip, the fact that it didnt bend at least 4 inches out from the handle. The narrow limbs with rounded tips for adding horn nocks if needed. The deep (D) look to the upper limb. I also figured W1 was backed with hickory from the white backing and dark belly in the photo. Lets build a bow. I just dont care for backed bows. Rawhide isnt bad if needed. I have a theory on sinew. Way back when as the bow developed there were i am sure bowyers in each clan/village/family group. You know that guy others went to even though they could make there own and traded a deer/wife/horse for one of their bows or a dozen arrows. You know like the healer and what not. Anyway a young man goes to this boyer and says I want to make the best bow better than the others in the village. The old bowyer would look up from his work and with a twinkle in his eye and smile on his face he would say, then back your bow with animal tendons. The young man would go skipping off to hunt down a whooly rino, or auroch to get his tendons. There is a reason I believe that all the ancient sinew backed bows were found in caves/bogs/bottom of ocean, that is where the archer threw them after shooting them a short while. Just one mans opinion. I didnt have yew but osage a secondary wood I did have. Time for another rant. At first glance at the pictures before Ira got me more info on the bows. I was thinking mid 30's. Well I decided to research some bows looking through Robert Elmer's early 1900 book American Archery: A Vade Mecum of the Art of Shooting with a long Bow. The other was Adolph Shane Archery Tackle How to Make and How to Use It (1936). A note the bows Hugh make were from 1945 to 46. So up until at least mid 1940's yew was the number one wood. All other woods were judged on how well they made a bow in the ELB style got that ELB design only. Osage came in second with lemon wood. Hickory was by Shane's opion I will paraphrase makes a inferior bow but cheap and easy to optain it follows the string badly, it is convenient to make your first bow but you will want for a better bow soon. It lacks cast he says but is tough and best for backing other bows. Hermit must have been listening in because this hurt his last feeling. So he and I went off roving and shot cow pies, and grass at different distances and he sent a heavey arrow just fine at all distances and found the mark more than once. Look at that smile after we got back. Ha! Inferior just have to design bow to woods abilities, not wood to bow design. So Osage it is, and unbacked. It will be a close ELB design after all Osage is a secondary wood. it will be a small bulbous handle, stiff 4 inch fade outs, limbs will be 1.5, ELB would be 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 but I am making it 66 like Hugh's it should be 70 my height. It will have some what rounded tips and slight Trap something I never do. I Suck at ELB d-cross section tillering so mine will be really rounded at edges but rectanguar cross section. I had a stave in mind; I went through a lot on building the Hermit. So two areas I will show, getting to your needed growth ring, and bending wood. Look at all the insect damage in the inner bark. Lucky they seemed to line the bark not the heart wood. There is heart wood under there those are 1/8 inch rings. The dotted line is the early spring growth ring. that sap wood was at least 3/4 inch thick If you did not see it before this is Hugh's draw Knife that Ira gifted me.Draw knife this way for hogging out wood. This way for fine working of wood. Draw knife and osage go together like whiskey and a cigar. This knife by Buck Brothers is a fine tool. Below the pencil line all inner bark, see some insect damage in the first heart wood ring. See the pity early growth ring. it has a unique sound as you work it with draw knife. I think a blind man could work all the way down this growth ring once it is established. Those are islands but that is my ring I will follow all the way down the stave. Look at that insect damage in the inner bark That bug has a two inch hidey hole. Yes one growth ring with some islands of pity early growth to be removed later. Drooling what a knife Look at that 1/8 to 1/4 inch slates coming off when hogging out wood. Flip and use to work down to lines Hugh, Ira Thank you seems so inept. What a fine tool. Profile shows some problems. The upper limb is really moving away from the archer. Some propeller twist in the upper limb also. Lets try some manipulation. getting things together so just come in clamp and bend, dry run. Can you say Red Neck. 35-40 minutes Didnt work Over hour, C clamp to get more oomph. Didnt work. Well lets try some dry heat then. Look at the upper limb will it move that much? Pretty flat on the bench. That could cause some string follow. Will heat get it to move that much..... O Yeah. I will take it. Remember if you want to move wood an inch, move it 1.5 to 2. It will move back towards its original shape some what. Look at that, nice. Bowyers Bible 2 has a whole chapter on bending wood. What a surprise it also took out most of the propeller twist. SWEET Moist heat caused this spit. Dry heat works better in my environment not question. I wont bother you with tillering and finishinig you can look to the post on Hermit for that. Man what a great secondary wood. Look still some set back left. Officially it is War Whoop III. Thanks Ira Thanks Hugh I am Blessed. Jack
War Whoop content media
0
11
118
jack_skinner
Feb 07, 2022
In Building Archery Equipment
Decided some tools for bow making were going to make in the 5th wheel. Even if I have to ditch some chairs or something. It was going to be a tool box, but as I designed and measured it grew. Also once you hook up and start down the road it's like a mini earth quake going on in the RV. Could not have tools jostling around and loosing edge and what not. Here is what I came up with Cedar board has been used for years to hold arrows under bench, had second piece in rafters. Some extra but this is what I need to turn stave into bow. Gluing up bottom and top Simple butt joints to give an antique look Fitting well Top Liking the look Top pull out tray Second layer Bottom layer. All I had was 2 inch foam. Looks good. Foam with panel bottom, made handles so its ea to lift out. Soft leather added to piece of thin panel. That pushes down on bottom layer Top tray, soft leather added to bottom as well. Foam in top and it all squished down nice. Corners were added and handles because it's more of a chest then tool box. I think it came out pretty nice. O Yes I will find room. Now no matter where I winter bows can be made.
Travel tool box...well chest content media
3
6
92
jack_skinner
Jan 22, 2022
In Building Archery Equipment
This project requires some shop tools. My wife says "so are you taking my bow with us in our travels". Um sure, thruth was had not thought about it. Now that I had she needed a better travel case than one like I am going to make for longbows using pvc. Needed some measurements. Above a board I had sitting around for some time. Going with a design like arrow box I made before. Make some cuts. Run through router table for nice inset top and bottom. Mitered butt joints. Looking pretty good. Pieces of panel needed to be brought back to life. Not bad. The gun stock stain came out red not brown. What the heck? Yuck. Looking over some options. Finish is looking good. Slow drying in this cold shop. Better I think. Bottom on left will have foam, I have to order, will hold bow and limbs. Top on right will hold dozen arrows. Also have to order handle. I will get hardware on it and arrows in next. Hope tomorrow.
Bow and arrow travel case (YES) content media
1
14
128
jack_skinner
Jan 21, 2022
In Main Campsite
We all know Ira aka Ugly Coyote SoCal. He shares his knowledge with us daily. He shows us archery history like no one else. He also has give aways. Well he now holds epic status in my book. After seeing my post on the Hickory bow build he sent me a draw knife. Not just any draw knife but one used by archery legend Hugh Rich. I can't wait for my next build because the bow will have MOJO from the start using such a learned tool. Ira thank you not only for the tool but for all you do on TAS. Great folks and a great site. Sitting with my Witherby. When looking the tool up on line terms like vintage and rare were used. Next week it's going to have to hold its own against some osage.
You folks know Ira content media
5
10
130
jack_skinner
Jan 04, 2022
In Building Archery Equipment
Makes very little sense 🤔 because just days ago I was burning several self bows. However I will be keeping a few bows and at least one self bow will make it in the RV with the Berry's. I am keeping a couple of Osage and a mull Berry, now I could use a Hickory. So this stave has been used for years to hold up my broken garage/shop door. Let's get the outer bark off. As you can see you don't need fancy, I do it leaning against my bench. Now reverse the draw knife use it more as a scraper and remove inner bark. You see I left quite a bit. Once more bow convex and concave scrappers will be used to remove more. Some inner bark left on does not hurt the finished bow. It can even add contrast for better camo. With white wood bows just using the ring below inner bark is common. Trying to follow a lower ring is tough with these bows, but it can be done. Insect damage at this end, will cut at line and once laid out should not be problem. Finding center line and laid out bow. Hard to see in pencil but permant maker does not scrape easy off white wood. Removing wood from sides with draw knife and hatchet. Bow has more wiggle than I thought. That's it for day one time to hit the treadmill. Anyone have Comstock's Bent Stick? I lent my copy out. If so can you post a picture of the page about "the perfect hunting bow". Just would like to verify my memory. Tomorrow I will remove belly wood as well making the sides easier to remove from.
Build along for Chuck (Day 10)
 The Finally! content media
4
55
432
jack_skinner
Dec 26, 2021
In Building Archery Equipment
By this time next year my wife and I if all goes as planned, will be Work Campers. Living out of an RV means down sizing. We have been here almost 20 years. It is really more difficult than we thought to start letting go. Bows went earlier this year. I have self bows that like over 25 years of archery and arrow smiting will end up in the wood burning stove.
Sad changes to happy new beginnings (Bows) content media
0
14
135
jack_skinner
Dec 04, 2021
In Building Archery Equipment
With wind up and kyak fishing getting really spotty I have been in the shop a lot lately. Here's four self bows I have finished up and my first Osage walking stick. This first picture is of the unfinished bows. There are a couple of bamboo backed Osage bows there that I layed up wrong and well....epic fail. The flat bow on the left is a screemer for a self bow, second bow kept going catty-whamps on me first one limb then the other. Ended up with 40lb bow, but 35 at my daughter's draw. She shot it last weekend and fell in love with it. The third bow is the only one I find lacking just not happy with the way it shoots. The antelope bow was a surprise and even though I thought with the heavy horn tips it would be jarring, it is a pleasant shooter. For a self bow of course. The walking stick was fun, and behind it on the bench is self bow number five. Also a cane in the works. Don't need it yet thank goodness.
Self bow bonanza content media
4
3
91
jack_skinner
Oct 27, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
I picked these up to study how the masters did it. Looking at lamination and elliptical tiller. Miller Sage this is bamboo backed Osage. "For me by me" appears on this bow, I didn't verify that to be Miller's personal bow. This is a short draw bow and is done at 26 inches. 64" 60@25. I tried to replicate that cross section shape with elliptical tiller and failed. Went back to my normal. 300.00. Schulz Grandpa 66" 68@27, laminated boo. Same checks in brittle finish you see on his bows. Does not harm the bow. 300.00. Thanks for looking.
Two brutes  BOTH SOLD content media
3
6
252
jack_skinner
Oct 27, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
68" 57@27. Bamboo cores, green and white glass. This was not my bow and the handle was too much. I removed the wrap and stipled it with O and E. Old one eye nickname for JD. It could be rewrapped. 300.00. Can be shot right or left handed.
JD Berry Heritage II  SOLD content media
0
3
145
jack_skinner
Oct 27, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
68" 62@27. Bamboo cores, clear glass, stained veneers. Double tip wedges skinny string ready I suppose. 375.00. ? Tim King's bow.
JD Berry Vixen SOLD  content media
0
16
594
jack_skinner
Oct 27, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
66inch 67@28, bamboo cores, green and white glass. Name on bow not mine, this bow has MOJO, has made meat. I can shoot the bows I am selling because I draw 26 400.00.
Northern Mist Ramer SOLD content media
0
1
166
jack_skinner
Oct 01, 2021
In Building Archery Equipment
While on my post covid isolation and recovery, I think 100% now thanks to a lot of prayers from a lot of folks, I started working on selfbows again. I had started this one some time back and decided to challenge myself. If I could finish this up my normal straightforward selfbows would be a snap. I had the antelope horn tips in place and it was close to tiller. The rest I have just completed. I tried to stain the goat rawhide backing but rawhide just doesn't do well very splotchy. Painted over it forgive the colors I am color challenged. If I were to do the horn overlay on the handle again I would just do a strip on the back. Lot of work to shape handle and horn to fit. It does feel good in the hand though. The prong inlay backplate was a late addition, and first attempt at inlay. As you would think the extra weight of the horn at the tips adds some thump but still looks good I think. Next I have a bamboo backed Osage to complete.
Back at selfbows content media
1
3
72
jack_skinner
Apr 30, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
Sunset Hill Sold content media
1
16
662
jack_skinner
Apr 30, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
Heritage II SOLD content media
1
0
100
jack_skinner
Apr 30, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
Vixen content media
0
0
266
jack_skinner
Apr 30, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
Shelton SOLD content media
0
0
117
jack_skinner
Apr 30, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
Ramer content media
0
3
383
jack_skinner
Apr 30, 2021
In For Sale Longbows & Recurves
So the wife doesn't believe I can let go of anything. So I am going to prove her wrong by letting go of what means the most to me. They can't all stay. But don't worry 😉 I will still have half dozen hidden away. Pictures to follow.
Retirement down sizing content media
1
4
603
jack_skinner
Apr 23, 2021
In Main Campsite
According to their website it is a go this year. Anyone planning on going?
0
7
70
jack_skinner
Jan 16, 2021
In Building Archery Equipment
This project started out sketchy My wife had fun with this. Several terms about being uneducated were used. I miss wrote Started again it is my first time trying this sign making system. Much better will place tomorrow after it dries
Winter project 4 heers your sign content media
3
9
135

jack_skinner

More actions