The guy that patented the cut in shelf also patented the windshield wiper.

@longcruise you can. I have a friend that does make them that way. He gets the total broadhead weight down to 145 grains.

For those that might be interested, a couple other pictures of broadheads I used to make. I used to do sheet metal work and had access to a spot welder for the one.

Bob, I know little about these things. I've just used it to remove glue and straighten up. a few dings on arrow points and I don't think it worked very well even for that.

I don't know if this 5 degree tapered reamer might be useful.

Your broadhead looks good. I'm not to familiar with A2 steel. I was given a piece to make a knife out of but I never got around to it.

Yes, it is a lot easier to make the barbed heads and I personally like them better. I did make the others before they made the barbed heads legal here though. I cut part of the blade out with a jewelers saw. Wasn't to bad. In Oklahoma, beaver are considered a neusence with an open season just like coyotes and I have taken them with a bow. You ask about failures with my broadheads and the only one I can think of was when I hit one in the teeth. I ended up getting him with another arrow but the one that hit the jaw and teeth looked like a lightning bolt. Here's a picture of one of my old heads that is single bevel. Here's

Dang Bob, those look great. Perfect!!

I have made both single and double bevels. The ferrules are made from what we used to call convert-a-points, now called wood arrow adaptors, I think. I use the PDP ones, I have always had good luck with Howard Hill style broadheads and the last fifteen years or so, I have been making them double bevel and sharpening them with the serrated edge like Howard did. I'm one of the few that like a long narrow broadhead. Not sure of what you mean by long term observations. I took seven deer, a hog, and a turkey with them the last two years and I don't remember any going much over fifty yards.

Hi Steve. I will be the first to admit that I'm not much of a craftsman but surprisingly they are usually within a two or three grains of 125 when sharpened.

I have been making my own for quite a few years also. I don't post to much about it because everyone one has their own opinion on what a good broadhead is. That being said, I have good luck with them. 1075 steel and a little over .040 if I remember right. I like a fairly soft broadhead.

A lot of work but I would take the quiver apart and hand stitch the whole quiver or at least the bottom. Again, a lot of work.

Not surprised. Turkeys are so solid compared to a deer. I have never had an arrow bounce off but many times, I have had poor penetration.

I've had the best luck with Thunderbird bow finish. Kind of expensive.

I have them also on a bow I built. Mine are ahead of the fade-outs and they worry me. I don't know if it is coming unglued or if the glass is breaking down.

I never would have gotten it.

Here's a quiver I made. I went ahead and hand stitched it and added a rope under the leather at the top. For some reason, it doesn't fit me quite as well as my old quiver.

I have had a few of Steve's Northern Mist bows and although they varied some in weight, I felt like the one that had maple cores chronographed the fastest and I was a little surprised by it. Thanks for sharing.

Yes, good book. I had the paperback copy that was falling apart and managed to buy in the hard copy.

Great Idea, I'm going to do that. I think I have a 110v thermostat, if I can find it. My garage where the cabinet is, is pretty cold in the winter.