Steve, The next time I go hog hunting I'm going to try a serrated edge on the Tuskers.

Unless you "brain em" it won't kill the skwerl, but they generally get knocked into tomorrow, then i hold them against a tree ( by the tail) and finish the job with my trusted hawk. I used to hunt skwerl...not as a side hunt, but as main course...what changed ? Gotta fix that.

"Nutters" are about as cheap as they come...especially if using scrounged components. Paul's shaft cutter comes to mind, goose feathers found mid summer wherever geese congregate ( golf course, municipal ponds) to rear their young. They molt there. Free feathers, not as good as Turkey's, but free.

I have the same problem with skwerls. I went from a $50 carbon arrow with a hot rod broadhead to a $5 (including the broadhead) homemade wood arrow that I have a no-strings-attached relationship with.

I tend to worry the skwerls more these days, but they still don't seem the worse for wear...

Although i think some of the " modern" heads are very well built and designed, i have a problem throwing a 20 dollar arrow at a skwerl, especially on a particular hillside i hunt, complete with rocks. Switching back and forth, from " deer heads" to "skwerl heads" proved frustrating. At one time, i looked at using the Ashby heads with Grizzly shafts, but alas...that was approaching 50 dollars per arrow. Even when no skwerls are around, i hunt the marsh, from the ground. There is a good chance a shot arrow is a lost arrow.

Answer for me is to just use good, but less awesome heads for everything. Its an arrow....shoot it. Zwickey No Mercy heads work fine .

Tusker's are my favorite too!. Cheap, strong, easy to sharpen. They ain't pretty, but neither is the job they have.

I found a good trick for preparing them (or any broadhead) for mounting on an arrow... They are so dang greasy it is hard to get a good glue bond. So I put them in the dishwasher before running a load and they get spic and span clean 😎

They do develop a light rust coat which is easily removed after glueing on the arrow and sharpening. Then a little silicon rust preventative keeps them looking good.

A Tag, Magnus Classic was my go to head for close to 20 years. It wasn't expensive and it was tuff.

Nowadays I use Stos when I can find them and Tusker broadheads.

Thanks for the input guys I was thinking of getting the wapitis this year. My supply of Magus I are getting low so it’s about time for a change.

Ah....Steve was using his 175# bow is all.😉

I've shot Wapitis and Brown Bears quite a bit, through a couple of deer and one elk. Lodged in the off side ball joint on one of the deer. No damage at all to the heads.

Don't know how the solid blades could bend, unless perhaps shot into an engine block, and even then I think it would be unlikely. Steve, were you shooting one of the vented blade models?

I never shot them but I like the looks of the Abowyer head. It seems to be a solid head and the enter and exit wounds that I seen in pictures have been big.

Didn't realize the bend part. They seem quite sturdy. I have one of each size in my collection and woulda guessed them at " very sturdy". Never have shot one though.

I used them for several years. They come super sharp and are really nice heads. They do bend about half the time (in my experience) when passing through a deer. I've never been able to get one straight again.

They have a lifetime warranty (I think) and I am sure I could have returned the bent ones for a replacement. I just never bothered, so that's on me. They killed critters dead, right now. That's all that can be asked, right?

Since then I've moved on to much cheaper broadheads that work just as well. It helps with the angst of shooting an arrow into the unknown. Who want's to wrap a $20.00 around the end of an arrow and let it sail away?