This is a post that all TAS members can use to share how they make wood arrows.
I start by checking the straightness of the shaft. I have a heavy weight roller that I use to get the shaft straight. From there, I dip a cloth in wipe on poly gloss covering the whole shaft. I let the shaft dry then use 0000 steel wool to get a flat surface. I apply 3 coats of wipe on poly and use 0000 steel wool between each coat. Once the finish is hardened, I taper the nock end and glue on the nocks, then apply the feathers with a fletching jig. The last step is tapering the point ends and gluing on either the field points or broadheads.
An important part of gluing on the nocks is to have the edge grain (side looks like lots of lines running from end to end of the arrow) as the side of the shaft. The belly of the nock should be facing up.
I also start by doing a necessary straightening. I use either my heat gun or my roller. I then tape off the area I want to cap paint. I used to dip but these days I spray. I use my Spinrite crester to spin the shaft. i let them dry overnite. I taper the nock ends, check for straightness agian. Then crest. Depending on how many colors, usually at least three that’s it for the day. Next day I wipe on over the crest a couple coats of wipe on Polycrillic. When that’s dry I apply nocks remove any tape and let set overnite. Now, lately I have been coating the rest of the shaft with pure Tung oil using a 50/50 mix with citrus solvent. i DONOT recommand this finish if you’re in any kind of hurry. when I am I use the waterbased Polycrillic. The Tung oil takes days to dry. Why I use it, no target burn, no target junk stuck to arrows. When that area gets worn, wipe on another coat. Now when all is done I use MinWax wood polish over the bottom part of shaft.
Nice job Tom
Great step by step.
I use water based for my plain Jane hunting arrows. I'm always in a hurry...lol 😎
Deno
Thank you, I still haven’t fletched them. I can’t seem to make up my mind on fletch choice.
Tom
Visibility wise, I'd say yellow. I'm sure you'll pick a winner
Deno
Yellow would be my fist choice next to a red/ yellow combo. But, we have an invasive plant here that has yellow flowers. Right now the plants are dead and have turned a golden color. Yellow doesn’t show up as well. Of course if I hit every target every time I won’t have to worry. But 3 chances of that happening, slim, fat , and none. So I am thinking yellow cock feather, red hen feathers.
I make a lot of my shafts out of Doug Fir or Poplar boards. I spine test to group arrows and then straighten them with a roller and spinner. After a couple of straightenings I grind the nock taper and grind a 9 to 10 taper on the feather end of the shaft. I then tape and paint on a cap. My dowler leaver a very smooth burnished shaft so I don't need to do any sanding unless I am reducing the stiffness of the shaft. After the cap dries I crest and then dip 3 or 4 times in polycrylic. The last step is to grind the point taper and fletch.
Sailor, I thought about making my own shafts. It seemed the only decent Doug Fir was used for making window sashes. The grain was tight and straight and the boards were knot free. Unfortunately the price per board foot scared me away.
Tom it’s hard to find but I always keep my eyes open for Doug Fir close straight grain 2x lumber. It’s rare but it does happen. One 2x6, 8’ or 10’ long will make a lot of arrows and they are only pennies each. I do prefer poplar over Doug Fir.
Making serviceable arrows is not particularly hard unless you try to put very fancy cresting on them. It is very easy if you buy all the components already made. The construction tips already given will produce nice arrows. As hard as it is to do fancy work, most of those I know who make these arrows seem to consider it an artistic hobby within the overall archery hobby. Some of these people are true artists. I have made a few sets of arrows that look pretty good but nothing like the ones we commonly see in member photos. My crests are very simple, just enough to cover the place where two different stains come together. I would never try to make crests as ornate as the ones TomM shows above. It would be nice to have that talent, though.
I ended up choosing all red feathers. I had these Ozark brand feathers so I figured it was time to use them. I think the unique shape caught my attention
Yes, only 11, one shaft didn’t pass the straighting test, broke.
Nice job Tom!! Feathers are super. You picked a winner.
Deno
Hope to try them out Wednesday. Goin have to stop makin for awhile, 3 or 4 dozen made now. Hopefully we will have some shoots this year. Might sell some?
Update, I shot the new arrows today. I must have done them right because they fly great like in small groups at 30-40 yards. i Wondered about fletch noise, no issue. The wind didn’t seem to affect flight either. Goin use these for next 3D for sure
Does anyone use the BearPaw feather chopper? If so likes and dislikes please. My old Vario has seen better days and parts aren’t available anymore. I have Lil Choppers as well but they aren’t good enough to chop spliced feathers with the precision I like. Thanks in advance.